Fokuser

Autor Strumf, 10.09.2023. u 19:19:50 sati

« natrag - naprijed »

0 Članovi i 1 Gost pregledava ovu temu.

Strumf

Uh.. bolje onda to sve sa remenom.
Teleskop: Sky Watcher 200/1200 Dobson, GoTo
Okulari: Super Plöss 25mm/52°, 10mm/52°, Celestron Omni 40mm, 6mm
Barlow: Gso 2x
Filter: Angeleyes Portable Polarizing Filter
Kamera: Samsung GALAXY s20, Logitech C270
Dalekozor: 10x50

Mount Pleasant Observatory (Bojan)

Tu onda nekaj nije OK.. nekaj je preteggnuto.. Po meni, fokuser se mora lagano vrtiti.
amater

Strumf

S remenom, Nema 8, 11 ili 14? (prije nego sto kupim najveci 17 ako nema stvarno potrebe za to).

Bilo bi dobro ako mogu napravit neki test s mojim Nema17,  npr. stavit ga na pola voltaze i probat silu, to znaci da se kg/cm smanjuje na pola, i onda taj broj usporedit po manjem motoru koliko ima kg/cm, npr.
Teleskop: Sky Watcher 200/1200 Dobson, GoTo
Okulari: Super Plöss 25mm/52°, 10mm/52°, Celestron Omni 40mm, 6mm
Barlow: Gso 2x
Filter: Angeleyes Portable Polarizing Filter
Kamera: Samsung GALAXY s20, Logitech C270
Dalekozor: 10x50

Mount Pleasant Observatory (Bojan)

Da, Englezi kazu: "the proof of the pudding is in eating it".. Probaj pa vidi da li radi, to je jedini nacin.
I onda, ako radi, ne diraj vise nista  *zubko*
amater

Strumf

Evo nasao sam nesto:

Citat:Why use NEMA17? Why not a NEMA11 or NEMA14?

The reasons are simple. Yes, its heavy and big. So why did I recommend it?

1. A stepper motor may be the most expensive single purchase, no point buying one then havong to replace it later

2. To get enough torque it really needs to run off 12V

3. The BY 5V geared motors are cheap, have a good deal of backlash, but if you are using a filter wheel and decent ccd, they DO NOT have enough torque to either move or hold the imaging train in place. May people go with those BUT they do not bother to test when the telescope is pointed to zenith, where the highest load is taking place.

4. Why not the NEMA 14 or NEMA11. Good question, BUT, torque is a function of voltage and current and resistance and magnetic force, size of magnets, number of coil turns etc. You will find that the NEMA11 and 14 need HIGHER currents to get the same level of force as the Nema 17.

Why? Because smaller maganets, less coil wires means less force, so to compensate for that you must increase the current. So the nema14 current is > 0.6 amps vs the Nema17 at 0.4A Does 200mA make a difference, yes, has implications on driver board choice but all HEAT is a factor of coil resistance, voltage and current, so that means the Nema11/14 will run much hotter than a NEMA17. Because the coil resistance is so low. This then has flow on effects to voltage supply, current loadin on the driver chip etc. The smaller motors will need to have coil power ON when not moving in order to hold a heacy imaging train in place (because torque etc is a function of size of motor, voltage, current etc etc).

A larger motor always generates more torque. IS it overkill, probably not, it will work even for the most serious user. And yes, you can rotate the focuser so the stepper is upright over horizontal. Overcomes balance issues if you have them. So why would one begin to compromise, the 11/14 are much the same cost as a 17 and if one ever got a heavier imagmeing rig then one would not have to shell out more money for another stepper. Anyhow, thats a brief summary of my position. Whilst a cheap one may work for some, I wanted to recommend one that works all the way from beginner to very serious.
Cheers Robert
Izvor: https://sourceforge.net/p/arduinofocuscontrollerpro/discussion/general/thread/a1ba69d5/
Teleskop: Sky Watcher 200/1200 Dobson, GoTo
Okulari: Super Plöss 25mm/52°, 10mm/52°, Celestron Omni 40mm, 6mm
Barlow: Gso 2x
Filter: Angeleyes Portable Polarizing Filter
Kamera: Samsung GALAXY s20, Logitech C270
Dalekozor: 10x50

Mount Pleasant Observatory (Bojan)

Kao sto vec rekoh.. probaj sa onim sto imas. Ako radi, OK.
A ovaj na tvom linku pretjeruje. Ili radi za trgovinu koja prodaje 1kW steppere za CNC glodalice ;-)
amater

hrast

Koristim NEMA17 slim za fokuser preko remena i remenica na reduktor 1:10 fokusera.
Vozim QHY268m + CFW3 7x36 + FF/FR0,85. 

Ovaj Bojanov prijedlog steppera ne bi išao. Taj motorić postiže moment s par sitnih zupčanika i ima dosta backlasha.

Strumf

#22
Citat: hrast  u 02.01.2024. u 11:10:23 satiOvaj Bojanov prijedlog steppera ne bi išao. Taj motorić postiže moment s par sitnih zupčanika i ima dosta backlasha.

Izgleda da se to sve tice teleskopa koji se koristi, tj. kakve tko ima kotacice fokusera, te koje okulare+barlove+mobitele/kamere na njemu gore vuce.
Teleskop: Sky Watcher 200/1200 Dobson, GoTo
Okulari: Super Plöss 25mm/52°, 10mm/52°, Celestron Omni 40mm, 6mm
Barlow: Gso 2x
Filter: Angeleyes Portable Polarizing Filter
Kamera: Samsung GALAXY s20, Logitech C270
Dalekozor: 10x50

Mount Pleasant Observatory (Bojan)

Citat: hrast  u 02.01.2024. u 11:10:23 satiKoristim NEMA17 slim za fokuser preko remena i remenica na reduktor 1:10 fokusera.
Vozim QHY268m + CFW3 7x36 + FF/FR0,85. 

Ovaj Bojanov prijedlog steppera ne bi išao. Taj motorić postiže moment s par sitnih zupčanika i ima dosta backlasha.
Kod mene i mojeg C11 ide.. Backlash nije problem, to se kompenzira u f/w (MyFocuserPro).
Kao sto Strumph rece. sve ovisi.
Treba probati, univerzalna rjesenja su u vecini slucajeva "overkill".
amater

hrast

NEMA17 + driver se na EU skladištu mogu naći za 10€. Mislim da se zbilja ne isplati riskirati vrijeme utrošeno na potencijalno "ne radi kako spada".

Ne kažem da 28BYJ-48 neće funkcionirati. I ja sam ga koristio u ranim verzijama fokusera i funkcioniralo je. Ali dok sam sve namjestio kako treba, dok sam shvatio da treba fleksibilan prijenos na osovinu fokusera, dok sam podesio backlash.  I sve skupa je radilo blizu granice.

I sada me baš briga, imam li na fokuseru 0,4kg ili 2kg.
Nemam brige oko backlasha.
Sve radi od prve. 

Strumf

Citat: hrast  u 03.01.2024. u 09:31:56 satiNEMA17 + driver se na EU skladištu mogu naći za 10€.
Mozda ce cudno zvucati, ali nije mi to radi cijene (svi su oni tu negdje) nego bi htio da mi to izgleda sto manje, da  nije preglomazno :) Al dobro.

 
Teleskop: Sky Watcher 200/1200 Dobson, GoTo
Okulari: Super Plöss 25mm/52°, 10mm/52°, Celestron Omni 40mm, 6mm
Barlow: Gso 2x
Filter: Angeleyes Portable Polarizing Filter
Kamera: Samsung GALAXY s20, Logitech C270
Dalekozor: 10x50

Strumf

Citat: Strumf  u 03.01.2024. u 16:56:42 satiMozda ce cudno zvucati, ali nije mi to radi cijene (svi su oni tu negdje) nego bi htio da mi to izgleda sto manje, da  nije preglomazno :) Al dobro.
Jel bolje da bude 400 steps?
Hocu li moc fokuser "detaljno" pomicat ? (preko mog postojeceg drivera).

Koliko sam vidio snimke nekog kupljenog auto fokusera s kojim dobijes daljinski, pa to izgleda na najsporijoj brzini da ide prebrzo. Ne bih htio da mi ovdje ide tak.
Teleskop: Sky Watcher 200/1200 Dobson, GoTo
Okulari: Super Plöss 25mm/52°, 10mm/52°, Celestron Omni 40mm, 6mm
Barlow: Gso 2x
Filter: Angeleyes Portable Polarizing Filter
Kamera: Samsung GALAXY s20, Logitech C270
Dalekozor: 10x50

hrast

Driverom odrediš broj steppova tj. microstepping i time postižeš bolju rezoluciju motora (na uštrb brzine i momenta). Osim toga u programu odrediš frekvenciju (broj koraka u sekundi).

"Bojanov" stepper u kombinaciji s driverom, njemu određuješ samo frekvenciju.
NEMA 17 se može brže vrtiti jer 28BYJ-48 ima u sebi getribu.


Kod autofokusa ti ručno dovedeš približan fokus, a program isfokusira do kraja. ti pomaci prilikom autofokusa su relativno mali i vrijeme ne igra ulogu.

Strumf

Teleskop: Sky Watcher 200/1200 Dobson, GoTo
Okulari: Super Plöss 25mm/52°, 10mm/52°, Celestron Omni 40mm, 6mm
Barlow: Gso 2x
Filter: Angeleyes Portable Polarizing Filter
Kamera: Samsung GALAXY s20, Logitech C270
Dalekozor: 10x50

OuttaControl

Evo ja sam za svog maka redizajnira fokuser, napravio sam frankenštajna, direktni prijenos nije bio dovoljno dobar, preskakao je i zato sam se odlucio isprintat si nešto novo.

Uzeo sam 2 autofokuser projekta i složio ih u thinkerkadu sa svojim dodatcima, neočekivana slučajna prednost ovakvog pristupa je što je ta plastika fleksibilna, i služi kao natezač. A namjerna je što nema rastavljanja i tako ne riskiram da mi padne ogledalo maka.




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